Lisbon

Monday 14 November

Our taxi collected us at 4.30 am to take us to the airport, for our early morning flight from Seville to Lisbon via Madrid. We were blessed with another clear sunny day, affording us great views over Lisbon, as we came into land. 

This blue sky was clearly seen as we entered our room at the Hotel Olissippo Castelo, about midday.

Day / night view from our window - just perfect.

The Hotel Olissippo Castelo was perfectly positioned. It sat just below Sao Jorge Castle [St George] and just above the Old City of Lisbon. We had the option of a steep walk,  tram ride or a walk plus use of a nearby carpark lift, to get to the old city. We made use of all three.

Sao Jorge is a Moorish castle with a strongly fortified citadel, dating back to the medieval period of Portuguese history. The catastrophic earthquake of 1755, contributed to its decay over many years and it is merely the skeleton of a time past.

The area around the castle is the oldest district in Lisbon and is known as the Alfama. It is the home of Fado music, a traditional music of Portugal. The songs of love, woe, pain and sadness are sung by a solo performer and are intensely melancholy.

Fado sculpture at the entrance to one of the Alfama's narrow streets.

One of the many things I loved about Lisbon was its tram system. A 'quaint' mode of transport and with Lisbon's narrow streets, a source of much entertainment for me.

Progress was often quite slow.

We sat in this queue of vehicles for quite some time. Once we finally moved on, the cause was discovered - a delivery of boxes to a shop, as per photo below. It must happen all the time.

On our 2nd evening, we managed to find our way along many narrow streets to Restaurante O Carvoeiro, recommended to us by our hotel reception.

An interesting walk in the night light.

We were thrilled with the recommendation - sensational food,  lovely surroundings, entertaining and helpful waitress, plus a gratis glass of port and chocolate cup liquor. We returned the following night.

Street views. Ours wasn't the only hill in Lisbon - city of seven hills.

There were several funiculars to whisk one from the lower city to the upper city.

The Portuguese azulejos tiles are seen everywhere in Lisbon - churches, palaces, ordinary homes and park seats.

             Urban art

Walking down the beautiful Rua Augusta, one can't help but be drawn towards its triumphal arch.

This photo is looking back to the arch from the vast waterfront square, Commercial Plaza.
Prior to the 1755 earthquake, this is where the royal palace stood for over 2 centuries. The bronze statue is of King Jose , wearing his emperor's mantle.

Elevator de Santa Justice - an example of post-Eiffel,  [Paris] iron architecture, built at the turn of the century. Another means for getting from one city level to another.

A short, gentle walk from our hotel took us to the Largo das Portas do Sol, an open plaza giving fabulous views east, over the Alfama and across the Tagus River. On our 1st evening, I made sure we had positioned ourselves well, [by 5.30] to watch the 6 pm rise of the November super moon! It did not disappoint. I just wished I had had my tripod with me.

We had a 3 day hop on hop off, bus pass. It allowed us on trams, buses and ferries so we were able to cover most of this vast beautiful city.

Opened in 1966, the Ponte Salazar is a 2 km suspension bridge across the Tagus River. In 1974 the peaceful Carnation Revolution, deposed the dictator Salazar on the 25 April. The bridge was immediately renamed - Ponte 25 de Abril or 25 of April Bridge.

The Christ the King statue overlooks the bridge and Lisbon. Completed in 1959, this Catholic, concrete monument was inspired by Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janerio. It was built by the Portuguese to express gratitude for being spared the effects of World War 11.

Our choice of afternoon for our ferry ride along the Tagus, was just perfect. Views of the city and notable landmarks were wonderful.

Middle photo below - the Belem Tower, built 1520 as a river defence.

Bottom photo - Monument to the Discoveries celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discoveries during the 15th and 16th centuries. At this time, Vasco da Gama found a sea route to India.

The Monastery of Jeronimos, completed 1604, has ornate decoration and had close ties with the early great Portuguese explorers.

One can't visit the Belem area of Lisbon, without a visit to the Pateis de Belem, to sample their famous Portuguese egg tart, Pasteis de Nada. It did not disappoint. The bakery opened in 1837 and today they still use traditional methods to create this mouth watering delicious tart, from a secret recipe handed down from the monks of the monastery.

Parliament House and an unusual building at its base.

Pedro IV Square or Rossio Square

The viewpoint of Sao Pedro de Alcantra, with its lovely fountains and Greek busts, gave us wonderful views across the city and to Castle Jorge.

The stunning, modern Lisbon Orient Train station, NE of Lisbon is in contrast to the 19th C, Rossio Station in the old city..

Campo Pequeno - Portuguese bullring.

From the top of the Eduardo VII Park, one can see all the way to the Tagus River. It took us some time, but we covered the distance on foot. On leaving the park, you enter the Marquess of Pombal Roundabout. Situated in its centre is a large statue of the Marquess who was the powerful Prime Minister at the time of the 1755 destructive earthquake and  is renowned in Lisbon for getting the city back on its feet.

Leaving the roundabout we walked down the Avenue of Liberation, modelled on the boulevards of Paris.

At the top of the Eduardo Park is this bronze, 'Mother and Child' sculpture by the Columbian artist, Fernando Botero.

 One of the many things I have loved in all the cities we've visited on this holiday, has been the volume of choices for relaxed, out door eating. In Lisbon the choices were endless. It seems such a natural way to dine.

A sloping street wasn't going to deter this eatery. The tables were set up on tiered levels.

Cobblestones, old buildings, sunshine, fantastic food, good friends, begs the question "Where's my table?"

Plenty to choose from here in the Commercial Plaza.

Our stay in Lisbon was all too short. We barely scratched the surface of its amazing history, architecture, culture and places of interest. The friendly warmth of its people also increases my desire to return.

I would love to read your comment.

Seville

Thursday 10th November, 2016

The view was very foggy as we departed Cordoba at 8.45 am, for the 2 1/2 hour coach journey to Seville. The journey took us through rolling hills and acres of olive groves. We arrived at our hotel, situated just off a narrow, one way, alley. There was much horn blowing as Frank scrambled around in the taxi, looking for his wallet. Thankfully I found it. It had slipped down into the side pocket. The driver was paid, the traffic moved on and peace was restored.

At reception, we were welcomed with a glass of champagne, which was greatly received given the short drama outside.

The Hotel Corrigidor, close to the Alameda [Mall] de Hercules, was another fantastic find by Frank, comfortable, friendly, spacious, great location.

Alameda de Hercules.

RHS - view from our room to the narrow alley.

Nic, Frank's mate of over 50 years, wasn't arriving from Geneva until about 5 pm, so we set out to find the Guadalquivir River and the stunning, white bridge we had spotted driving into Seville.

The Alamillo bridge was completed in 1992 for the 1992 World Expo. It is a cantilever spar cable-stayed bridge, designed to create a bridge of symbolic importance. It represents the soaring aspirations of the City of Seville.

During the 3 days we were here, we again found delightful alleys and al fresco eating.

Mates catching up at the Moorish themed Restaurant, Cuna 2 on Calle Cuna. Fantastic food, decor and service.

A short distance away from the restaurant, was the dramatic, wooden structure, Metropole Parasol. Designed by a German, made from birch from Finland, concrete and steel, it is held together by glue. Completed in 2011, it consists of 6 parasols in the form of giant mushrooms and in its lower level is  an archaeological museum preserving Roman houses, discovered at the beginning of the project. Built in the old market square of the old city, it is in stark contrast to its historic surroundings.

Another evening we found a tiny restaurant, in an alley off the Alameda de Hercules. Lovely food, but memorable for me, was the size of the sangria I ordered.

Walking back through the Alameda de Hercules, we discovered that a stage had been set up and groups of men were singing Spanish folk songs, accompanied by only one or two guitars and or a mandolin. They wore pantaloons and black cloaks covered in badges. We spent over an hour listening to their wonderful melodic tones, but were unable to discover anything of their story. Googling has proved negative.

Many kilometres were covered as we explored the city over the next 3 days.

Columbus Monument [built 2014] with his ship 'Santa Maria' in the Murillo Gardens, adjacent to the Alcazar Gardens.

Rodrigo de Triana  aboard La Pinta, shouted "Tierra! Tierra!" [land, land], at 2am on October 12, 1492. Triana was not given recognition for his discovery.  

Columbus' tomb in the Cathedral.

A glimpse through a gate.

Street flamenco.

Paid flamenco.

Returning from the flamenco dancing, the street lighting and atmosphere on a Saturday evening was incredible. The Spanish really do know how to relax and spend time with family and friends.

 Fascinating buildings whereever we walked.

Interesting embassies.

Behind this archway is our first glimpse of one of the stunning end towers, of the majestic Plaza Espana, built as the centrepiece and administrative office of the World Fair held in in Seville in 1929. We hadn't a clue of the extent and grand scale of this amazing complex that we were about to see.

Here is our second glimpse of the tower and we are still completely unaware of the scale of things to come.

 

It was impossible for my camera to even begin to capture the splendour of this semi circular plaza and building.

A panorama from my I-phone.

As seen on google maps.

The complex is decorated with the azulejos or painted ceramic tiles, found throughout Seville. The complex however, is most famous for the 58 benches lining the facade of the main building, which depict allegorical paintings representing each province of Spain.

The expansive gardens of the Maria Luisa Park opposite, were a delight to walk through.

Seville's Cathedral, Santa Maria de la Sede took 100 years to construct. 1401 - 1506. It was built over the site of the Alijama mosque built in the late 12th C. The Cathedral's bell tower [103 m] was the Giralda or minaret of the mosque and dominated the skyline for over 800 years. I spotted it from many different angles.

The tower has a ramp made of 35 segments to elevate one to near the top of the tower. It was wide and tall enough to allow a person to ride a horse to the top.The Christians added a final stairway of 17 steps up to the bells.

The Seville cathedral is the largest gothic cathedral in the world and its size and grandeur is imposing.

From the top of the Giralda, we had 360 degree views of this vast city.

Top L - immediately behind the cathedral roof top is the Alcazar.  Top R - the roof top and Patio de los Naranjos or courtyard for the Moorish worshippers to wash their hands and feet.

Bottom L - the old bull ring  Bottom R - Alamillo Bridge and Metropole Parasol

The Royal Alcazar of Seville has a history similar to that of Granada and Cordoba. Below is an excerpt from http://www.seville-traveller.com/alcazar-seville/ which succinctly tells its story.

"History

Soon after the Almohades, a Moorish dynasty, gained control of Seville in 1161, they embarked on a building frenzy. They constructed a number of baths, towers, a lavish grand mosque and a fortress-like palace known as the Al-Muwarak (the Blessed). 

In 1364, after the Reconquista - the reconquest of Moorish Spain by Christians - King Pedro I commissioned the construction of a new palace, the Palacio Pedro I, at the site of the Al-Muwarak. Craftsmen from across Andalusia created a magnificent interior in Mudéjar style, arranged around a number of patios. Over the years, other monarchs kept expanding the palace, resulting in a diverse complex with different architectural styles. The top floor of the palace is still actively used by the Royal Family."

Its beauty in a few photos.

Maiden's Courtyard and below a close up of the detail of the tower behind the courtyard.

Ceiling of the Hall of the Ambassadors.

Beauty of a window -  2nd shot, same window, but a different light.

The Alcazar gardens were beautiful in their own way, but not as stunning as in Granada and Cordoba.

On our last night we dined where the locals ate, but inside.

It had been a brilliant 3 days in Nic's company. Our goodbyes were said back at the hotel, as we had a 4.30 am start for our flight to Lisbon. 

I would love to read your comment.